Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor | The Soul of Taiwanese Sorghum Spirits
- Chi Hsu
- 6月19日
- 讀畢需時 3 分鐘
已更新:3天前
Kinmen is the wartime legacy of Taiwan, where located just a few kilometers off the southeastern coast of mainland China, Kinmen holds a unique position in modern Chinese and Taiwanese history. There were two conflicts happened:
In 1954–1955, the First Taiwan Strait Crisis broke out, with the PRC shelling Kinmen and nearby islands.
More intense was the Second Taiwan Strait Crisis(823 Artillery Bombardment)in 1958, when the PRC launched massive artillery bombardments, firing hundreds of thousands of shells over 44 days. Despite the odds, ROC forces successfully defended the island.
As artillery shells rained down on the island, the survival of frontline troops depended heavily on naval supply operations from Taiwan.
My dearest papa, as a young solider at that time, had ever participated the naval supply operations. These were not ordinary deliveries - they were dangerous missions through a war zone. The boats had to dodge artillery fire and navigate rough waters, often without lights. My late papa didn't tell much about this mission. I went to Kinmen attempted to feel more wartime history after he passed 3 years.
It was supposed to discover a military heritage workation - I always packed my laptop as a digital nomad. Unfortunately, the exact 823 Artillery Museum what exhibited the conflict was under renovation. My journey unexpected turn into an adventure of being impressed by Kinmen’s cave-aged liquor.
Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor (金門酒廠)
Kinmen Kaoliang Liquor (金門酒廠) has been around since 1952. Originally founded to support military troops stationed on the island, it has grown into a cultural icon. It is the backbone of Kinmen’s economy with annual revenue between NT$12 to NT$13 billion (approx. USD $370–400 million) in recent years, contributing 30% of total government budget (tax income).
(Photo Credit | Chi Hsu)
Some roundabouts even are designed by the liquor bottles of Kinmen Kaoliang! Very unique cityscape.
(Photo Credit | Chi Hsu)
Cave-Aging Practice
The practice of aging liquor inside mountain caves began in 1992, when the distillery first repurposed old military tunnels for long-term storage. These naturally cool, humid, and silent environments turned out to be ideal for aging sorghum spirits. The cave-aging became a signature method for Kinmen's premium kaoliang, especially for its 8-, 10-, and 30-year editions.
I wouldn't know about the cave-aging practice until the guide of KKL passed a brochure to me as I asked a question where to find the cave cellar as the wallpaper below.
(Photo Credit | Chi Hsu)
Jingwu Liquor Cellar (經武酒窖),
There is only one cellar opened for the public - Jingwu Liquor Cellar* but the appointment required, said by the guide of KKL.. My instinct sensed this would be the highlight of the workation!
(Photo Credit | Chi Hsu)
“From a fortress of war to a sanctuary of spirits — the mountain hasn’t changed, but its meaning has.”
(Photo Credit | Chi Hsu)
While the group walked into the cellar, deep into the mountain, where I could breathe the liquor air from granite**, unlike most distillery tours. That's so overwhelmed although I am not a liquor taster. I felt so moved by this liquor cellar, partly recalled my late papa drunk it with his buddies, partly the cave once protected itself and Taiwan, now protects the sorghum spirit.
(Video Credit | Chi Hsu)
A New Taster
As the first time taster of this Aged Kinmen Kaoliang, I wasn’t so sure but could tell about it was so bold yet surprisingly smooth, with a warm finish and deep, various layers of grain-forward aroma. Kinmen Kaoliang made Kinmen from battlefield to national treasure base.
(Photo Credit | Chi Hsu)
*Jingwu Liquor Cellar:It opened in late 2022 that the cave — formerly a military bunker — became the celebrated Jingwu Liquor Cellar, curated with guided tours, sensory stations, and premium tastings.”
**Kinmen granite is a type of high-quality igneous rock formed millions of years ago through volcanic activity and slow cooling beneath the Earth's surface. Characterized by its fine grain, durability, and beautiful speckled texture, Kinmen granite has long been a prized building material. Local quarries supplied stone for traditional Minnan-style houses, stone walls, and even military fortifications. Its natural strength made it ideal for bunkers and underground tunnels that withstood decades of conflict.
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